Fortune | FORTUNE 11小时前
How the CEO of Ralph Lauren got the company through the ‘boiled frog phenomenon’ of going too wide, too cheap
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Ralph Lauren 在 CEO Patrice Louvet 的带领下,通过开设“Ralph’s Coffee”等创新方式,成功吸引了年轻一代消费者,实现了品牌价值的提升。公司通过一年的“痛苦调整”, reset 了消费者预期,并缩减了三分之二的批发业务,优化了分销策略。在疫情期间,公司进一步巩固了其全球供应链,使其能够更好地应对贸易摩擦和潜在的价格波动。Louvet 强调,Ralph Lauren 不仅仅是服装品牌,更是“梦想”的创造者,这与迪士尼等公司有异曲同工之妙,也正是其区别于其他服装零售商的关键所在。

🎯 **吸引年轻消费者,重塑品牌形象**:Ralph Lauren 通过在门店开设“Ralph’s Coffee”等创新体验,成功地吸引了 TikTok 世代的年轻消费者,将其定位为品牌与年轻一代的首次接触点,有效提升了品牌的年轻化形象。

📈 **品牌价值提升与销售增长**:在 CEO Patrice Louvet 的领导下,Ralph Lauren 实施了多年的“品牌提升”计划,成功推高了利润率并创下九年来的销售新高,表明其品牌重塑策略取得了显著成效。

🔄 **战略调整与风险应对**:公司在 Louvet 到任前存在过度扩张和依赖促销的问题。自 2017 年以来,Ralph Lauren 进行了艰难的战略调整,包括接受一年的“痛苦调整”以重塑消费者预期,并在疫情期间关闭了三分之二的批发业务,优化了分销渠道。

🔗 **供应链韧性与成本控制**:通过在全球范围内(从越南到秘鲁)建立制造供应链,Ralph Lauren 具备了应对全球贸易动荡和潜在关税上升的能力,可以通过提高效率和选择性提价来抵消成本压力。

💡 **“梦想”驱动的品牌定位**:Louvet 认为 Ralph Lauren 的核心竞争力在于其“梦想”业务,而非单纯的服装销售。这种将品牌与梦想、生活方式相结合的理念,使其能够与迪士尼等公司相提并论,形成了独特的竞争优势。

Most 20-something trendsetters don’t own a sailboat, a tasteful cottage on Nantucket, or even a pony-emblazoned Polo shirt. But under CEO Patrice Louvet, Ralph Lauren is still enticing young people into its orbit. To familiarize the TikTok generation with the Ralph Lauren lifestyle, the company now operates 35 “Ralph’s Coffee” store-in-stores. “It’s an amazing platform to get in touch with younger consumers,” Louvet said. “For 20-year-old women […] it’s the first engagement with the brand.”

Now margins are rising and sales are at a nine-year high—two signs that the company’s multi-year “brand elevation” campaign has worked, Louvet told me in Paris recently. But it equally arms the company better for future global price and supply chain disruptions to come, he said. How did Louvet pull it off?

Before he arrived in 2017, Ralph Lauren “expanded in places where we probably shouldn’t have, which drove higher levels of promotional activity,” Louvet told me. “It was like the boiled frog phenomenon. I’m sure it was well-intended. Each year, we thought it was just marginal. But after a few years, you realize it’s not going to end well.”

Since then, he said, “we’ve had our eyes wide open on tough choices.” Joining Ralph Lauren after almost three decades at P&G, the native Frenchman took a page from his old employer’s turnaround book. To escape from the price race to the bottom, the company “took a one-year, painful hit” to reset consumer expectations.

Then, during COVID, Louvet reset the distribution strategy, and closed two thirds of its wholesale presence. The company, which now has a manufacturing supply chain stretching from Vietnam to Peru, is in a decent position to weather trade unrest. “If tariffs stay where they are, we have the ability to offset,” Louvet told me. “We can do efficiency work with our partners. But we can also continue our pullback on promotional activity, and perform selective price increases.”

But the big “a-ha!” for Louvet is finally getting back to what founder Ralph Lauren figured out so many decades ago—and what sets the company apart from other clothing retailers. “There are more parallels with companies like Disney,” Louvet observed. “We’re not in the apparel business,” he said, “We’re in the dreams business.”

Contact CEO Daily via Diane Brady at diane.brady@fortune.com

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CEO Daily is compiled and edited by Joey Abrams and Jim Edwards.

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Ralph Lauren 品牌重塑 年轻化营销 供应链管理 消费者洞察
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