Fortune | FORTUNE 07月18日 05:43
Where’s the beef? Hamburger inflation is running at 12% as America’s herds literally shrink
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近期牛肉价格持续攀升,平均每磅牛肉价格已达6.12美元,较去年同期上涨近12%。专家指出,牛肉价格的上涨并非短期现象,而是过去二十年间多种因素累积的结果。主要原因包括美国牛群数量的长期缩减,导致供应紧张;持续干旱导致饲料成本上升,迫使部分牧民提前出售母牛;墨西哥地区出现的“新世界食肉蝇”威胁,导致进口限制,进一步减少了供应;以及潜在的关税政策可能增加进口牛肉成本。尽管近期干旱有所缓解,但牛群的恢复需要至少两年时间,短期内牛肉供应紧张的局面难以改变,预计价格将维持高位。

🐄 **牛群数量持续减少是牛肉价格上涨的根本原因。** 自1951年以来,美国牛群数量已降至最低点,自2019年以来减少了8%。这主要是由于长期的干旱导致牧草枯竭和饲料成本上升,迫使牧民以更高的价格出售母牛以获取短期利润,从而影响了未来的繁殖能力,导致整体牛群规模萎缩,供应量减少。

🦠 **外来寄生虫威胁加剧了供应短缺。** 墨西哥地区出现的“新世界食肉蝇”是一种危险的寄生虫,其幼虫会啃食活体动物的肉体和体液。为防止其传入美国,美国已暂停从墨西哥进口牛,而墨西哥是美国牛肉供应的重要来源之一(占美国饲养屠宰牛的4%),这一限制进一步加剧了牛肉供应的紧张局面。

⚖️ **贸易政策可能推高进口成本。** 虽然目前影响尚不显著,但潜在的关税政策可能导致牛肉价格进一步上涨。美国每年进口大量牛肉,其中许多是用于混合国内牛肉以生产消费者偏好的牛肉产品。如果关税生效,进口牛肉成本将增加,而美国国内生产商难以快速替代这些进口肉类,这将推高整体市场价格。

📈 **强劲的市场需求和供应恢复的滞后性导致价格居高不下。** 尽管牛肉价格高昂,但夏季烧烤季的需求依然强劲,且消费者并未大规模转向猪肉或鸡肉。即使干旱有所缓解,牧民也需要至少两年时间来增加牛的存栏量和恢复牛群规模,这意味着短期内牛肉供应紧张的局面难以有效缓解,高价格预计将持续。

Anyone firing up the grill this summer already knows hamburger patties and steaks are expensive, but the latest numbers show prices have climbed increasingly fast.

And experts say consumers shouldn’t expect much relief soon either.

The average price of a pound of ground beef rose to $6.12 in June, up nearly 12% from a year ago, according to U.S. government data. The average price of all uncooked beef steaks rose 8% to $11.49 per pound.

But this is not a recent phenomenon. Beef prices have been steadily rising over the past 20 years because the supply of cattle remains tight while beef remains popular.

In fact, the U.S. cattle herd has been steadily shrinking for decades. As of Jan. 1, the U.S. had 86.7 million cattle and calves, down 8% from the most recent peak in 2019. That’s the lowest number of cattle since 1951, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Many factors including drought and cattle prices have contributed to that decline. And now the emergence of a pesky parasite in Mexico and the prospect of widespread tariffs may further reduce supply and raise prices.

Here’s a look at what’s causing the price of beef to rise.

Smaller herds

The American beef industry has gotten better at breeding larger animals, so ranchers can provide the same amount of beef with fewer cattle, said David Anderson, a livestock economist at Texas A&M.

Then in 2020, a three-year drought began that dried out pastures and raised the cost of feed for cattle, according to the American Farm Bureau. Drought has continued to be a problem across the West since then, and the price of feed has put more pressure on ranchers who already operate on slim profit margins.

In response, many farmers slaughtered more female cattle than usual, which helped beef supplies in the short term but lowered the size of future herds. Lower cattle supplies has raised prices.

In recent years cattle prices have soared, so that now animals are selling for thousands of dollars apiece. Recent prices show cattle selling for more than $230 per hundredweight, or hundred pounds.

Those higher prices give ranchers more incentive to sell cows now to capture profits instead of hanging onto them for breeding given that prices for those calves in the years ahead may decrease, Anderson said.

“For them, the balance is, ‘Do I sell that animal now and take this record high check?’ Or ‘do I keep her to realize her returns over her productive life when she’s having calves?’” Anderson said. “And so it’s this balancing act and so far the side that’s been winning is to sell her and get the check.”

Disease dilemma

The emergence of a flesh-eating pest in cattle herds in Mexico has put extra pressure on supply because officials cut off all imports of cattle from south of the border last year. Some 4% of the cattle the U.S. feeds to slaughter for beef comes from Mexico.

The pest is the New World screwworm fly, and female cows lay eggs in wounds on warm-blooded animals. The larvae that hatch are unusual among flies for feeding on live flesh and fluids instead of dead material. American officials worry that if the fly reaches Texas, its flesh-eating maggots could cause large economic losses as they did decades ago before the U.S. eradicated the pest.

Agricultural economist Bernt Nelson with the Farm Bureau said the loss of that much cattle is putting additional pressure on supply that is helping drive prices higher.

Tariff trouble

President Donald Trump’s tariffs have yet to have a major impact on beef prices but they could be another factor that drives prices higher because the U.S. imports more than 4 million pounds of beef every year.

Much of what is imported is lean beef trimmings that meatpackers mix with fattier beef produced in the U.S. to produce the varieties of ground beef that domestic consumers want. Much of that lean beef comes from Australia and New Zealand that have only seen a 10% tariff, but some of it comes from Brazil where Trump has threatened tariffs as high as 50%.

If the tariffs remain in place long-term, meat processors will have to pay higher prices on imported lean beef. It wouldn’t be easy for U.S. producers to replace because the country’s system is geared toward producing fattier beef known for marbled steaks.

Prices will likely stay high

It’s the height of grilling season and demand in the U.S. for beef remains strong, which Kansas State agricultural economist Glynn Tonsor said will help keep prices higher.

If prices remain this high, shoppers will likely start to buy more hamburger meat and fewer steaks, but that doesn’t appear to be happening broadly yet — and people also don’t seem to be buying chicken or pork instead of beef.

Nelson said that recently the drought has eased — allowing pasture conditions to improve — and grain prices are down thanks to the drop in export demand for corn because of the tariffs. Those factors, combined with the high cattle prices might persuade more ranchers to keep their cows and breed them to expand the size of their herds.

Even if ranchers decided to raise more cattle to help replace those imports, it would take at least two years to breed and raise them. And it wouldn’t be clear if that is happening until later this fall when ranchers typically make those decisions.

“We’ve still got a lot of barriers in the way to grow this herd,” Nelson said. Just consider that a young farmer who wants to add 25 bred heifers to his herd has to be prepared to spend more than $100,000 at auction at a time when borrowing costs remain high.

There is typically a seasonal decline in beef prices as grilling season slows down into the fall, but those price declines are likely to be modest.

___

Associated Press writer Dee-Ann Durbin contributed to this report from Detroit.

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牛肉价格 牛群数量 干旱 寄生虫 关税
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