If you're on haircare TikTok, there's a good chance you've heard of head spas. Popular in Japan, these relaxing treatments not only involve massaging and cleaning your scalp, but can also involve a scalp analysis to provide personalised tips on caring for your hair.
Now French haircare brand Kérastase has launched the K-SCAN, an AI-powered scalp and hair analysis tool helping professionals provide such insights during your regular hair appointment.
Offered as a complimentary add-on to any service in participating Kérastase-affiliated salons, a K-SCAN scalp analysis simply requires a hairdresser to snap a photo of your scalp using the handheld device. Taken with a microscopic camera under white LED light, cross-polarised white light, and UV light, the picture is then analysed by Kérastase's AI algorithm with results immediately displayed on a tablet.
Kérastase states that the K-SCAN was developed by L'Oréal Groupe researchers in Paris, who tested it on hundreds of people from China, France, and Mauritius Island ranging from 18 to 60 years old. Of these trial participants, 79 percent were female and 21 percent were male. Kérastase's in-house AI algorithm was subsequently validated by training it on over 12,000 images.
Mashable checked out the K-SCAN during its trial launch, the tool being released in Spain and Australia in advance of its rollout in the U.S. and globally. There are still a few kinks to smooth out, but considering the usefulness of its insights plus the fact that an analysis costs zero dollars, I'd certainly ask for a K-SCAN the next time I visit the salon.
Kérastase's K-SCAN AI analysis vs a Japanese head spa
Going in, I was curious as to how the K-SCAN would compare to a normal, non-AI scalp analysis. I'd previously paid for a scalp assessment at a Tokyo head spa a few years ago, relying heavily on Google Translate to communicate with the very patient attendant in charge of my consultation. Taking several photos of my scalp with a microscopic camera, she informed me that my scalp was dry (I'd erroneously believed it to be oily) and that my fears of hairfall were unfounded (I remained unconvinced).
While this was undeniably useful information, I left the session without a clear action plan. With the exception of cutting out shampoos designed for oily scalps, I largely continued my lacklustre hair care routine as usual, unsure of what to change or how. Though they told me I should be moisturising my scalp, I'd never heard of a scalp moisturiser before, and I wasn't sure what to get or how to apply it.
My K-SCAN analysis was both more and less thorough, being more of a quick, practical assessment than a relaxation experience. While the Japanese service took several photos of different areas of my scalp, the K-SCAN was satisfied with working off just one image.
However, the hairdresser operating the device did ask me a few quick questions before we began, such as how often I wash my hair; whether I've coloured or permed it; if my scalp gets itchy; and whether I wear a lot of headbands or hats. Kérastase told Mashable that hairdressers are trained in how to use the K-SCAN and decipher its results.
Once we got to the actual scan, the hairdresser used a tablet to show me the photo of my scalp under different lights and applied filters. For example, one image drew little green boxes around every follicle to calculate my hair density, while another used UV light to assess my scalp microbiome. Kérastase's AI analysed the photo to detect such information, comparing it to the scalp images it had been trained in order to evaluate what it meant.
The K-SCAN then gave me a scalp and hair profile, which quickly confirmed the Japanese head spa's assessment. Yes, my scalp is dry, and yes, my concerns about hair loss are more based in paranoia than reality. It also indicated that my scalp's microbiome is healthy — according to the hairdresser, the UV image should be "lit up like a Christmas tree."
Having my previous analysis corroborated was a reassuring signal regarding the K-SCAN's accuracy. It was also gratifying to see the results clearly conveyed visually, which helped me understand the analysis. The hairdresser then used the results of my K-SCAN assessment to recommend a personalised Kérastase Fusio-Dose hair treatment, choosing a concentrate and booster that would address my specific issues (Sahara-grade dryness in my case). Following the treatment they did a second K-SCAN to compare my before and after, though the only real difference was that my scalp was slightly irritated from the massage.
Even so, Rome wasn't built in a day, and years of frizzy hair takes more than one salon session to truly address. The real test would be whether following the K-SCAN's advice yielded noticeable results in the long term.
While the Tokyo head spa gave me information about my scalp health, I wasn't sure what to do with it. In contrast, the K-SCAN recommended three specific Kérastase products for my dry hair: the Nutritive Bain Satin Riche shampoo, Nutritive Nutri-Supplement Scalp Serum, and Chronologiste Intense Regenerating Mask. The hairdresser even helpfully walked me through how to apply the serum.
Of course, these are fairly pricey products and the recommendations are contained to Kérastase's range. Yet even if you have no intention of investing in Kérastase haircare, getting the K-SCAN's recommendations is still useful in helping formulate a routine, as well as guide your search for more affordable alternatives.
K-SCAN hair analysis results sent right to your inbox
I was assured that the K-SCAN's results would be emailed to me after my salon appointment. However, while the information I ultimately received was still useful, I was disappointed to find it comparatively sparse.
Though the pictures of my scalp were the most interesting part of my K-SCAN analysis, none were included in Kérastase's email. Instead, it merely consisted of several sliding scale graphs, the veracity of which was questionable. For example, while my in-salon results said that my scalp microbiome was high, the email told me it was low. The hair density slider also sat near the middle of the graph yet erroneously gave me a score of 54/200 instead of out of 100.
Further, while the email did provide the list of Kérastase products the K-SCAN recommended, it consisted only of photos and names without context. At the salon the K-SCAN had shown me the order in which they'd be applied, as well as what each one did. It's simple enough to look the products up online for a more complete picture, but I would have appreciated it if this information were provided in the email. Having a clear plan laid out would have been reassuring, especially for hair care novices.
I would also have liked to have the images of my scalp for comparison if I were to return for another K-SCAN in the future. The hairdresser told me that the K-SCAN's scalp pictures are wiped at the end of each day, so it isn't as though your regular salon will keep a database documenting your hair's health.
It's a win for scalp privacy, but it does mean that repeat customers won't get to enjoy the satisfaction of tracking months of progress. If you do go to a K-SCAN, I'd recommend taking photos of the tablet screen for your own records.
Since my K-SCAN, I've certainly felt less confused and directionless when it comes to haircare. It's difficult to tell whether Kérastase's products specifically have made a difference, or whether it's my new K-SCAN-informed focus on moisturising my dry hair and scalp which has played the bigger part. Whichever the case, Kérastase's K-SCAN was invaluable in informing my new routine, which has my scalp feeling more comfortable and hydrated, and my hair slowly looking softer, healthier, and less frizzy.
You can find a participating K-SCAN salon near you via the Kérastase website.
